It's lunchtime at Preston Elementary School, on Maryland's Eastern Shore. Kids file in, get dollops of food on their segmented trays, and maybe grab a chocolate milk. But one option on today's menu is special, served alongside grapes and broccoli.
"I got a catfish sandwich!" announces Ben Rochon, a second-grader. Between mouthfuls, he tells me how it is: "It's yummy." He's eating a catfish cake, also known by its nickname, the "catty patty." Some kids like it with ketchup or mayo. Fifth-grader Teagan Donovan goes minimal. "I like it by itself with no toppings, because it's pretty good by itself," she says. In Teagan's case, "by itself" is literal: "I ignore the bun."
Not everyone's into the fish cake — after all, this sunny Friday is also pizza day at Preston, and cheese slices are tough competition. But more kids have been trying catfish when it's served a couple of times a month. That's good news to Beth Brewster, who oversees food services for Caroline County Public Schools. "It tastes great. It's great for you," she says of the fish cake.
It has another benefit: It's made with blue catfish. Since spreading to the Chesapeake Bay in recent decades, the fish has become an apex predator. It can grow to more than 100 pounds; its voracious appetite is fueling worries that it's eating too many native species.
"It tastes so good because it eats everything we love — crabs and rockfish, and all kinds of things that we love to eat," Brewster says. Beth Brewster led her chefs in developing a catfish cake known as the "catty patty." Brewster is the supervisor of food services for Caroline County Public Schools.Ryan Kellman/NPR
State officials first asked Brewster to help tackle this problem about eight years ago.
"I was like, 'Beth, we have this invasive species. It tastes pretty good, is what we've been hearing. Can you do something about it?'" says Karen Fedor, administrator of the Farm and Food Programs at the Maryland Department of Agriculture.
Fedor describes Brewster as an "out-of-the-box thinker" who'd be up for the challenge of experimenting with recipes that appeal to kids — and also conform with federal dietary requirements. That's how Brewster's team landed on a crabcake-like dish made of blue catfish. "It was kind of fun for my chefs to play with the recipe," she says, adding that because they have USDA approval, the cakes can be served anywhere in the U.S.
The pandemic initially slowed the effort down, Brewster says. But then she heard that Virginia was partnering with a California-based program called Bay2Tray to connect seafood with schools. Brewster got in touch with a simple message: "I have a fish for you."
Now, other school districts in both Maryland and Virginia are serving blue catfish. In Preston, a rural community near the Choptank River, kids are excited to do their part by chowing down on the catty patty. "It kind of tastes like crabs, but in a fish way," says fifth-grader Raelynn Truitt. "It's like, really really good."
Blue catfish does taste good, and I reckon kids on the eastern shore are used to eating fish. But I would like to point out MDE has health advisories published for consumption of Blue Catfish caught for sport that depend on the age of the consumer, the size of the fish, and the tributary they are caught in. With commercial catfish, you have no idea where they originate. Of course, MDE has exempted commercial fish from those advisories. That's convenient.
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